People call it a Northwest Passage cruise, but this was no ordinary cruise — it was an expedition in every sense of the word. In the spirit of adventure and connection, I joined Aurora Expeditions to make the full crossing, a feat few have ever achieved.
It’s a route that captured explorers for centuries, swallowed ships whole, and inspired Stan Rogers’ haunting ballad. Many explorers have set sail in an attempt to traverse the Northwest Passage, but never returned. After centuries of failed attempts and Franklin’s doomed expedition, Roald Amundsen finally crossed in 1906, which was only made possible because he relied on Inuit knowledge and expertise. This past September, I found myself following that same path aboard Aurora Expeditions’ Sylvia Earle — and not just sailing it, but completing it.
This wasn’t just any voyage. We traveled nearly 5,000 nautical miles, explored places most ships will never reach, connected with Inuit communities across Nunavut, and became the 100th passenger vessel in history to make the full transit from Greenland to Alaska via the Northwest Passage. To say it was surreal would be an understatement.
Cruising the Northwest Passage – Views you can expect on a Northwest Passage Expedition
Walking in Franklin’s Footsteps
Say “Northwest Passage” to almost anyone, and the first name that comes up is Franklin. In 1845, he sailed off with two ships and 129 men, and none of them made it home. For years, nothing but rumors — starvation, scurvy, and cannibalism — and the unknown became legend.
And then there’s me: the Five Foot Traveler following in Franklin’s footsteps (go ahead, try to say that five times fast). Same route, very different circumstances — no ice closing in around me, no rations running out, just a heart full of curiosity and a ship full of people chasing the same dream.
Excited to be sailing the Northwest Passage with this group, and my mama! Photo Credit: Adrian Wlodarczyk
Northwest Passage Cruise
The Journey: Nuuk to Nome
We kicked off in Toronto, where Aurora’s team got us checked in, organized, and ready for the Arctic. The next morning, a chartered flight took off straight for Nuuk, Greenland. That’s where it hit me: we were actually about to cross the fabled Northwest Passage.
Northwest Passage Map
Aurora’s 29-day expedition was designed in four chapters, each with its own focus. While I can’t dive into every stop, here are some of the highlights:
Part 1: Greenland & Baffin Bay
Flying into Nuuk felt like flying straight into a postcard — sharp mountains circling the town, rugged and beautiful in every direction. Embarkation was a whirlwind: finding our cabin, safety briefings, unpacking, and that giddy feeling of “oh my gosh, this is really happening!”
Cabin on the Sylvia Earle. Our home for nearly a month on board!
Once onboard, Greenland started showing off. Sisimiut popped with color — bright houses stacked against the coastline with the cutest sled dogs. And then there was Ilulissat, home to the world’s largest UNESCO ice fjord. Standing there, surrounded by ice as far as the eye could see, was already unreal…
Illulissat Icefjord – Cruising the Northwest Passage
But then we got back to the ship and were greeted by a pod of humpback whales right off the bow! It felt like nature was throwing us a welcome party.
Arctic Wildlife – Pod of Humpback Whales just off our balcony!
Just when I thought Greenland couldn’t top itself, we woke up in the Uummannaq ice fjords. Glassy calm water, icebergs scattered like sculptures, light so soft it didn’t feel real — hands down one of the prettiest mornings of my life.
Zodiac ride through the Uummannaq ice fjords – Aurora Expeditions
The following morning, we had a spectacular “pre-am” zodiac cruise. I’ll never forget witnessing the beauty of sunrise from the water with these epic icebergs beginning to light up.
This was worth waking up early for!
Later that afternoon, we went on another zodiac ride and saw a Peregrine Falcon – the fastest animal on Earth – screeching goodbye to us as we left Greenland heading East across Baffin Bay and entered Nunavut, Canada.
Spotted in the Arctic: the Peregrine Falcon!
Pond Inlet was our first stop, and an Inuit community. Stepping into the community, we were welcomed with dancing, drumming, and stories from our local guides. It was the moment the Arctic stopped being just ice and wildlife and started being about people we, admittedly, knew very little about.
Finger Pulling – Arctic Winter Games
Part 2: Lancaster Sound & Devon Island
Sailing into Lancaster Sound, the mood shifted. We came upon Devon Island, the largest uninhabited island in the world, but one that holds memories too heavy to ignore. We landed at Dundas Harbor; Inuit families were forcibly relocated here by the Canadian government and dropped into conditions where survival was nearly impossible. Walking across that barren landscape, with our Inuit ambassador, Reuben, to share what those relocations meant for his family, was sobering. It wasn’t history in a textbook anymore — it was raw and real, and it stayed with me.
Dundas Harbour – Devon Island, Nunavut
When we were back on board, as if to lighten the mood, we saw our first mama polar bear with two cubs! While they were quite far off in the distance, it made for an exciting start to our afternoon.
This was taken from the ship with a telephoto lens, and then cropped in post-processing
From there, we hopped into zodiacs at Croker Bay. This was our final zodiac ride in a glacial bay, weaving around massive icebergs. Here we saw a variety of birds, a ringed seal, and some playful bearded seals.
Wildlife of the Arctic: Bearded Seal
Next up was Beechy Island, a spot that serves as a pilgrimage site for explorers and historians alike. It was where Sir John Franklin and his crew first wintered when searching for the Northwest Passage in 1845, and where three crew members lost their lives; their graves are considered some of the best preserved in polar exploration history. So, needless to say, stepping onto Beechy Island and standing in front of three weathered graves — Franklin’s men, buried here almost two centuries ago — was sobering. It wasn’t dramatic, it was just… quiet. It makes you realize how unforgiving the route through the Northwest Passage has always been.
The three graves of Franklin’s men, and the fourth grave was that of Thomas Morgan, who died during one of the search expeditions for Franklin
The following few days were the wildlife highlights of the trip. When we sailed past Radstock Bay, we spotted two polar bears. One was hardcore chilling, and the other had just killed a seal. We had the opportunity to jump into zodiacs and stayed a fair way away (per AECO guidelines) to ensure that we weren’t disturbing the polar bears. To have the opportunity to observe a polar bear in real life felt like a dream!
Extremely grateful to have had the opportunity to see such a chill polar bear in Canada. All photos of wildlife were taken using a 400mm (800mm full-frame equivalent) lens, cropped in post-production, and viewed in accordance with local distance regulations to protect us and the wildlife.
And it didn’t stop there. The following morning, just before sunrise, we made our way to a very foggy Prince Leopold Island. While usually known for its bird cliffs, I’ll forever remember it as the time I saw a polar bear stand on its hind legs! It was an eerie morning where we could hardly make out the zodiacs ahead of us, but the team navigated it brilliantly, which afforded us a memorable bear sighting.
Polar bear on its hind legs – Prince Leopold Island, Nunavut, Canada. All photos of wildlife were taken using a 400mm (800mm full-frame equivalent) lens, cropped in post-production, and viewed in accordance with local distance regulations to protect us and the wildlife.
To continue on with our journey through the Northwest Passage, we crossed Bellot Strait; the Strait is approximately 16 miles long (25 km) and 1.2 miles wide (2 km). It’s considered a notorious aspect of the Northwest Passage, known for difficult currents. It was here that we saw the elusive Narwhal! 40 individual narwhals stayed with us for much of our transit, which was certainly a rare and unforgettable wildlife encounter! One of the things that impressed me most was that we were sitting at lunch on Deck 8 as we crossed Bellot Strait, not near a window, with Ben from our Expedition Team. Mid-conversation, he thought he spotted something in the water, so we got up from our table, went outside… and saw Narwhal! To say I was impressed is an understatement!
Can you spot the Narwhal tusks? A rare Arctic Wildlife spotting!
Part 3: Franklin Bay & King William Island
By the time we reached King William Island, Franklin’s shadow was everywhere. This is where many of his men made their desperate final march, where their footprints quite literally fade into the tundra. To walk there, knowing the wrecks of HMS Erebus and Terror lie nearby, was chilling. And yet, it was also humbling because for generations, Inuit oral histories told exactly what happened here, even when no one listened.
Out on the water, near the HMS Terror wreck, we tied the zodiacs together and Kevin played a beautiful rendition of Stan Rogers’ “Northwest Passage” – it was such a special moment for our whole group.
Our Expedition Guide, Kevin, playing “Northwest Passage” as we were cruising the Northwest Passage
In Cambridge Bay and Ulukhaktok, the Arctic felt less like a far-off wilderness and more like someone’s backyard. Groceries cost triple what we’d pay at home. Hunting isn’t really optional; it’s how people put food on the table. And with the ice thinning earlier each year, even that’s getting harder. These weren’t easy things to hear, but they were honest, and those conversations stuck with me.
An Elder in Ulukhaktok greets us upon arrival
5FT Tip: Bring cash in small bills. The clothing and artwork made by Inuit artists aren’t just souvenirs — they’re a way to carry home part of the story while directly supporting the communities you visit.
We had the opportunity to visit Cape Barrow and Tree River, both of which were absolutely beautiful! Glacial blue water met autumnal flora as we weaved down the river with a Golden Eagle flying overhead.
Autumn showing off at Cape Barrow
Never expected to see swans on our Northwest Passage cruise!
The next day, we visited the undulating beaches of Cape Krusenstern before our polar plunge into the Arctic Ocean! I can now say that I’ve officially jumped in both the Arctic and Antarctic.
Polar Plunging during our Northwest Passage crossing. Photo Credit: Adrian W
What made this extra special was not only jumping in once… but jumping in a second time with my mama! Not many mother-daughter duos can say they’ve willingly plunged into the Arctic Ocean together.
What so impressed me was how safe the entire operation felt. While music was blaring and the whole ship was seemingly cheering from three different outer decks, the entire Expedition Team was around the marina to ensure the process went smoothly. We were greeted back on board with a shot of vodka, then ran up to the sauna to warm our frozen limbs.
Mother-Daughter Polar Plunge! Photo Credit: Adrian W
Our last zodiac ride before we crossed the Beaufort Sea into Alaska was the Smoking Hills. These cliffs have been smouldering for 5,000-8,000 years and contain large quantities of hydrocarbons that autoignited. Quite a phenomenon, and very cool to witness from a bumpy zodiac!
Smoking Hills – Northwest Passage Expedition
Part 4: Into Alaska
The final stretch of our expedition carried us westward through spots of sea ice and across the Bering Strait. After weeks of landings, Zodiacs, and history lessons written into the very ground, the open sea days felt welcome. These are no ordinary sea days – they’re more like Adult Summer Camp: Arctic Edition! Our days were jam-packed, filled with workshops, lectures, games, afternoon tea, and so much laughter. I truly enjoyed the days that we had on the open ocean.
Learning to light the Qulliq, which is not only a practical necessity (providing warmth and light), but also a cultural and spiritual practice for Inuit. It symbolizes the responsibility of women in nurturing and resilience, and serves as a reminder of the historical and cultural significance of the oil lamp in Inuit communities. Photo Credit: Adrian W
When we began crossing the Bering Straight, it started to sink in that we were nearing the end of our journey. At the Diomede Islands, the United States and Russia are just two miles apart… and the International Date Line lies in between. Looking to our left, it was September 21st, and to our right, it was September 22nd.
Had to take a selfie as we crossed the International Date Line during our Northwest Passage Expedition
What made it extra exciting, though, were the puffins! So. Many. Puffins. It was a joy to watch these clumsy, adorable birds, and we spent hours watching them fly around.
What a surprise! I wasn’t expecting to see Puffins!
By the time we pulled into Nome, Alaska, “Nuuk to Nome” wasn’t just a catchy phrase. It was a journey stitched into my memory — a mix of ice and people, history and survival, awe and humility.
There’s no better way to get to Nome than through the Northwest Passage Cruises (but I may be a bit biased)
Inuit Culture & Community
One of the most meaningful parts of this voyage was spending time in six modern-day Inuit communities. From Pond Inlet to Cambridge Bay, we were welcomed with stories, songs, and everyday life. These weren’t staged shows; they were authentic exchanges.
When Jack, one of the Elders, saw my hat, he pointed at me and goes “We match!” and then pulled me in for a hug
Hearing Inuit perspectives, seeing their resilience, and understanding how culture continues to thrive in one of the harshest climates on Earth was a privilege I’ll never forget.
Life Onboard the Sylvia Earle
The Sylvia Earle isn’t a cruise ship — it’s an expedition ship. Days were filled with landings and Zodiac cruises, and evenings brought lectures, workshops, and recap briefings.
Aurora Expedition’s Sylvia Earle just after sunrise
What made it extra special was that the Expedition Team comprised a marine biologist, geologists, an archeologist, historians, kayak guides, an amazing photographer, and the best expert guides! I am so grateful for how they enriched the entire experience for us, under the leadership of our fearless, indefatigable, and most incredible expedition leader, Ashley. She went above and beyond to ensure that every passenger had the most opportunities to explore, experience, and learn. Not only did she guide us through the Northwest Passage, but she also guided us as we confronted some very harsh realities facing Inuit communities (both past and present) with the utmost respect and compassion.
Our incredible Expedition Team onboard the Sylvia Earle!
The Expedition Team wasn’t just the reason this trip was possible; they’re the reason it felt so meaningful. Each of them shared their passion in such an honest, heartfelt way, and it made every day come alive. A special shout-out to Adrian, Ben, and Avi for the laughter you all brought into my life. It’d been years since I’d laughed as hard as I did with the three of you…
As a whole, I was extremely impressed with the Sylvia Earle. It was beautiful yet practical – every space had a purpose, and I loved having a cabin near the Library (because the views are gorgeous from there!).
Library at sunset on Aurora Expeditions’ Sylvia Earle
I ended up snapping photos from our balcony nearly every day, and when we weren’t in the lecture theater or looking for wildlife on the outer decks, most of our time was spent in the 180-degree Observation Lounge on the top deck.
I never tired of seeing giant ice bergs off our balcony — it’s one of the best parts about expedition cruising in the polar regions!
And let me just say, this crew keeps you fed! I averaged 8.5 courses a day, excluding their cookies, tea sandwiches, and incredible hot chocolate. So, unlike Franklin’s team, you’ll never go hungry! They do a brilliant job of catering to all dietary restrictions, and every meal has a vegetarian option. Thanks for always making sure I was stuffed, Allan, Hassan, and Gavin!
I averaged 8.5 courses a day, excluding afternoon scones, cookies, and hot chocolate
The Expedition in Numbers
- 100th Passenger Vessel through the Northwest Passage in history
- Third Northwest Passage for Aurora Expeditions
- 4,756 nautical miles traveled
- 187.5 nautical miles of new OLEX tracks (charting new paths!)
- 13 Wilderness Landings
- 6 Modern-day Inuit Community Visits
- 12 Zodiac cruises
- 10 Ship cruises
- 14 Places Aurora had never been before 2025
- 6 Places ships don’t normally go to
Reflecting on nearly a month spent cruising the Northwest Passage
When to Visit
The Northwest Passage is only navigable for about a month to a month and a half each year when the sea ice loosens enough to allow ships through. Even then, conditions are unpredictable. It’s one of the most technically challenging routes in the world, which makes completing it all the more special. Bravo, Captain!
Pack ice in the Arctic Ocean
What to Pack
Aurora provides a waterproof shell, insulated jacket, and muck boots — but you’ll need to build smart layers. My recommendations:
- Base layers: I mostly wore Arctix bottoms and Patagonia tops
- Mid layers: Add a fleece or light puffer
- Socks: Smartwool liners + Darn Tough socks (bring extras)
- Accessories: Plenty of hats, gloves, and buffs
- Waterproof pants: A must — you’ll wear them every day, and it’s mandatory
- Shoes onboard: Loose, airy slip-ons with rubber soles (rubber soles are crucial!)
- Clothing style: Casual and comfortable — this is not a formal ship
And, whatever you do, don’t forget your camera!!!
Final Reflections
Crossing the Northwest Passage was so much more than a trip — it was stepping straight into history, culture, and raw wilderness all at once. Being on the 100th passenger vessel to ever make it through felt unreal, like joining this small, special family of explorers who actually followed in the footsteps of Franklin, Amundsen, and so many others. Standing there, I kept thinking… fewer people have been here than on Everest. That blew my mind.
A journey like this can make you feel so small, in the best possible way
And through it all, Aurora Expeditions didn’t just get us there, they made the experience extraordinary. Their team turned this from a crossing into something so much bigger: a legacy I’ll carry with me forever.
Northwest Passage Cruises + Sunsets like these
And for our next journey…
The adventure doesn’t stop here. In March, I’m heading south with Aurora Expeditions — back to Antarctica, and this time to South Georgia, the Falklands, and the South Sandwich Islands. I’ve wanted to see South Georgia since my very first trip to Antarctica in 2013, so this feels like such a full-circle moment.
Antarctica 2013
Penguins as far as you can see, wild windy cliffs, the magic of the White Continent, and the chance to follow Shackleton’s footsteps again… I honestly can’t wait to share every bit of it with you.
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